ARAGORN ... Not all those who wander are lost (JRR Tolkien)
Indonesia - Central
This page covers Komodo, Lombok and places in between. Komodo, of course, is the home of the feared Komodo Dragon. Lombok is the place to go now, as it is as Bali used to be before Bali was discovered. See other Indonesia pages in Photo Gallery too. For a more detailed introduction, see Indonesia - Eastern.
But all good things must come to an end. Here we leave Sumba for Rinja and Komodo, looking back at Saint Barbara and Tahlequah leaving behind us. Of course, we had one local canoe looking at us ... as we looked back at him.
Of course, we had to visit the Komodo Dragons, as we were in a nice bay on the island of Komodo. They simply look like large lizards. You may judge for yourself if you would like to make friend with that face. The park guide thought he could scare this smaller one on with his stick, but we were glad he held that "10-foot pole", and not us. They didn't look too bad, but they can move fast if they need to, and they have eaten humans.
The small community on Komodo are fishermen (don't play in the woods, children). These fishermen tooled by us at anchor, just to check us out. As Indonesians love to have you take their picture, there is at least one calling your attention to him, like the fellow at the base of the mast (below). Don't ask me what the framework on the boat is for, we saw more different kind of fishing craft in Indonesia than you can imagine.
Sailing down toward Bima, on Sumbawa the next evening, we snuck into this little cove (you see a third of it) at dusk. Again, we were surrounded by unusual fishing boat designs. Although the hook was in 60 feet of water, it made a pleasant anchorage and was calm all night. The people were nice too. One fisherman, watching us set our hook a second time (dragged on a bolder bottom) told us to take his spot, as he was going out for a few days (or maybe just the night ... the language barrier got in the way about then).
Indonesians are happy and warm people, and the most casual encounters are some of the most heart-warming. As we were preparing to weigh anchor the next morning, these two boys (and the old man in the outrigger) came out in their dugout (sans ends) to see us. They were very curious about the boat and us. The boys climbed on deck, and peered through the ports to see below. Although we could not speak the same language, we got along very well. On departure, we gave them some small colored pencils. The old man wanted some too! (And we gave him some.)
We anchored off the commercial dock at Bima town in mid-morning to get some more diesel fuel. Soon enough, an entrepreneurial chap named Budi came out with a friend in a canoe, and took our five jerry jugs in and out for three trips to fill our tanks. Meanwhile we sat on the boat and watched the fleet of coasters (above), some still having final finishing on them (they are built about 20 miles east of Bima). Below, you see one of the no-muffler, one-lung diesel ferries that came to town, many diverting to come close to us for curiosity's sake. Again, always a wave from the friendly Indonesians. (And check out that stern anchor.)
On To Lombok
Lombok is a cross between Bali and the rest of Indonesia. It has a craftsman/artisan mentality, some tourist havens, and traditional villages. It is primarily Muslim (unlike Bali), but with historical Hindu/Balinese rulers. We were there during Ramadan, so we got to learn a lot about loudspeaker calls to the faithful from the Mosque five times a day and much of the night. Some of the local specialties are hand-woven sankit cloth and the first of the artistic batik paintings we were to see. We loved Lombok.
The rice house is the symbol of Lombok. This is one in a "traditional village", and its construction is authentic as possible. The rice is stored above ground to reduce the consumption by rodents, etc. As the core of all Indonesian meals, rice is a symbol as well as the barrier to starvation. (Okay, many of the meals have noodles, but rice is still the reality.)
In Lombok, we anchored off the beach near Pemang, at a protected bay opposite the Gili Air islands. As usual, the water was deep up to the beach, but some more nights with 250 feet of chain out in 70 feet of water started to seem typical. Also in the bay was NADEMIA, Carolyn and Alistair Roberts.
The Roberts had met Muhammad and Abdul, two brothers who provided tour services, runs into the market on motor scooters, dinghy safeguarding, and pearl necklace selling (yet more). Left, Carolyn looks at Muhammad's goods, and, right, Leslie got her chance too. The transactions were performed in a "peruga" (spelling?), another piece of Lombok architecture. These covered, open air, raised platforms are the first structure built in any house lot. They are used for lounging and meeting friends ... an outdoor living room. This one on the beach became the meeting point for ARAGORN, NADEMIA and Muhammad and Abdul.
Lombok is a mix of old and new, as you can see from this street scene near the Pemang Market. Modern directional signs and curbs contrast with the horse-drawn wagons and the lady carrying the basket on her head (behind scooter driver).
While touring Lombok, we visited (and shopped at) many crafts places. Here two women in the textile business. The left is weaving Sekat, another kind of fine cloth only made locally, see examples behind the weaver and coming off the loom. On the right the woman demonstrates spinning the cotton into thread to place on the loom.
Below, a western woman is impressed into service throwing ash trays to be sold to tourists. Bet she wished she had not worn white pants for this job.
But you could dress up in sekat and other fine garments for a photo of the traditional dress of the Lombok bride and groom. Dig the SEGs on the models.
Leslie and Carolyn take a ride in the local transportation at the beach resort opposite our anchorage.
Many of the beaches on Lombok were filled with these one- or two-man fishing boats. They would go out at night and stay out for several days. The fishermen moved their lateen rigged boats with these inverted gull outriggers around very nimbly. As you can see from the closeup, the supplies and gear are very basic. The lanterns burn brightly all night and serve double duty: ward off larger vessels and attract fish.
This one's for you Weiner. Some of the Lombok boats were decorated. This fisherman likes semi-cascade bonsai. But why the name in English?