ARAGORN ... Not all those who wander are lost (JRR Tolkien)

San Blas Islands - The Kuna Yala

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This most beautiful part of Panama is located along Panama’s Caribbean coast and comprises a 365 island archipelago. In 1938 this area was established as an autonomous Indian territory—home of the Kuna Indians-- which offers both land and sea treasures. Only about one-tenth of the islands are inhabited. Today’s Kuna Indians live as their ancestors did: trading coconuts, fishing for crabs, lobster and snapper. Most of the communities speak the ancient Indian language and the women still wear the traditional colorful dresses highlighted with the world famous “molas.” It is a most enchanting and photogenic place. After our stay in the San Blas we sailed the 70 miles westward to the Atlantic entrance of the Panama Canal.



The Kuna woman wear the tradtional molas that they sew themselves. The adult women also wear a gold nose ring and a head scarf.
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Porvenir Island is the administrative capital of the San Blas Islands. This was our first stop in the San Blas Islands where we cleared in with Customs and Immigration. Believe us, this is as advanced as it gets in the San Blas. The low buildings with the red roofs are customs and the administration of the Kuna Yala (Kuna autonomous region). The taller building to the right is the control tower for the airstrip(!) (not seen, as it is at eye level). You cannot anchor near the runway, as your mast is higher than the planes while landing. Like all the other islands in the San Blas, a three-foot wave would sweep the island away. They are so picturesque with the coconut trees seeming to grow out of the sea.
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Aragorn at anchor off of Porvenir. The island is typical of the islands of the San Blas none being over 2 feet above water level. We wondered what these people do if a big wave comes! Many of the homes are built on stilts.


The children are very friendly and love having their photos taken. This little girl had been working with her mother on a mola when she ventured outside to see who we were.


Visiting Isla Wichub Huala we came across a man building his dug out canoe. The process takes roughly seven days to complete. The Kuna men climb high into the hills on the mainland to fell the trees which the canoes will be made from. They then drag the trees back to the river and float them down stream to the sea. From there they float the logs to their island to begin the process of scooping out the wood and making it into a dug out canoe. Dick was very interested in the process--maybe another career in the making!


This is the local ferry that runs between the islands of the San Blas. And we complain about the ferries in the States!

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This is Venancio Restrepero, the Master Mola Maker in Moramake Tupu. Although mola makers are usually women, the occasional man becomes a master, with students and assistants. Here Venancio demonstrates his fine needle skills during a showing in the cockpit of ARAGORN.

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Although it isn't the Stop and Shop, this grocery store on Wichub Huala had the best bread ever, cake like and sweet. YUM!

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Dick inspects the building of a Kuna house. The houses are built in a day with all the villagers coming out to help. An old fashioned roof raising. Notice how short the walls are--the Kuna people are very short.

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One night at dinner the Rally boats were treated to an evening of Kuna Dancing. Then some of the Rally participants joined in.

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Dick and other Rally participants at a briefing on the Panama Canal Transit in Sapibenega.

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Snorkeling at Moramaki Tupu Island was amazing. The Starfish were everywhere.

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The Kuna children were so friendly. They loved having their pictures taken and loved seeing themselves on the monitor. They never tired of looking into the camera or having their pictures taken.

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When at anchor the young people would paddle out to our boat. Here I am swimming to have a chat with them! Return to Photo Gallery


Many of the ulus (canoe in Kuna) are fitted with a small sail. When sailing, the paddle is used as the rudder. The Kunas would sail by us in the morning on their way to work and again in the evenings on their way home. Many times we would be offered langostinos, lobsters, bananas, or coconuts as they sailed past us.

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Looking towards the interior of Panama. A beautiful country.
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